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Surfers For Ron Paul



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Ron Paul, Surfing Politics.

need I say more?

That dude with the "I <3 ex-surfers" is for me

I'm an ex-surfer.. my first Ron Paul campaign shirt came out of Florida Ron Paul surf shop.. with the Ron Jon logo..

Blew my sinus out from surfing so much, so Mr. "I <3 ex-surfers".. tell him the reason he <3 ex-surfers is because he can't surf and can't handle the competition. Probably rides a styrofoam long board.. I used to repair boards, and one of the custon jobs we did was beef up the nose and rails of the board with carbon reinforcement mat so we could take out guys like "I <3 ex-surfers".

I'm sure glad that kook didn't surf my break, reminds me of this guy: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SOqMJBs5ZcI

Cool, Granger.

I'm just learning how to surf. It's a slow process when you don't live near an ocean.

Here's some tips

It's not the size (though I love big waves) it's the shape.

Study your break.. learn where the rips and undertows are.. avoid the undertows.. the rips usually have foam leading out to sea.. paddle out on the rip.. you'll avoid the "impact zone".

When you duck dive,, dive under the lip, and use the thrust of the lip behind you to pop you out further to the line up

Paddle past the line up.. the ocean will place you.. focus on the waves, not the surfers.. IGNOR them and focus where you want to be lined up on the wave (there's plenty of kooks who will talk and never catch a wave but try to take yours).

Don't take a fight to the shore.. drown their ass if someone tries to attack you.

You drop in on someone.. say you're sorry and get out of the water.

RESPECT RESPECT RESPECT RESPECT RESPECT the ocean, RESPECT yourself, RESPECT the others and RESPECT the unwritten laws of the surfers

NO FEAR
BE LIKE WATER

If you're strapping your board to the roof of your car, the fin goes up and to the front of the car.. use towels between your straps of you don't have a board bag.

Don't trash the beach. don't leave your wax, your broken leash, your broken board.. don't ride a wave all the way past the fist break, even if your going in.. don't get your board dinged up or scratch your glass up..

Point breaks and beach breaks behave differently.. know your foot.. everyone developes a preference for rights or lefts.

It's more important to ride the wave than do a trick.

Long boards rule.. the are the best to learn and best to catch a ride, and if you're not a kid (like I was when I learned) they are the best board for grown ups.

It's all about having healthy fun, so have fun LAUGH LOUD.

Slap a wave for me.

Cowabunga!!!

fireant's picture

Can I add one?

My surfing days were north Florida Gulf coast back in the day of 40 pound boards and no leash. I had just surfaced after wiping out and my buddy was coming down a wave straight at me; no time to dive. Instead of cutting, he jumped off his board, which sent it shooting nose first into my upper lip; ouch! I kept surfing, but when I finally went to the doc for stitches, he cussed me out for waiting, and of course, I wear the scar today, lol. Moral; even if he turned and couldn't avoid me, I'd have a chance to deflect his board with my arm, but when he jumped off, it sped the board up and I had no chance. Cut and avoid obstructions in the water.
That's a good list btw.

Undo what Wilson did

Those 40 pound boards

Now those were the days! My uncles surfed using those 40 pound boards.. I was awed by them.. they were like Gods to me.. great guys too. a lot of fun.

My grandmother bought me my first board, from a cousin.. Weber. The same cousin decided to take me surfing when I got my board.. took me out to Ocean Beach where they have a peir.. so he takes me to the end of the peir and tells me to toss my board over and dive in. I told him, no way.. you go first.. so he tosses his board in and the police show up and arrested him. LOL It wasn't funny. I had to go to the VW bug, drop off my board and go get his board from some kids who were playing with it, and wait for two of my uncles to come pick me and the car up. I laugh now.. Cousin blamed me for not doing what he told me to do and stalling. But I'm pretty sure, they would have waited for us to come to shore..

He leared that trick from his Dad btw.

Thank you for the story.. got more?

I posted a pic of me on a board last night on your reply

but took it down. It was a great pic taken at the perfect time and made me look like an expert. A second after the pic was taken I wiped out and chipped my tooth on the board. It was taken in Jaco, Costa Rica, a nice spot for all levels of surfers. I decided to take it down...if I find your email I will send it to you and you can critique my form.

Was your heart smiling?

That's the best form when surfing! Shaka!

I was concentrating...

Doing that thing with my lip...

My worst wipe out

Baja CA. It's a pro break.. hell of a north currant that goes into a jagged rocky mountainside, the waves are very powerful, hard, cold water.. it was about 10', and the sets were three perfect tubes each. I had to walk a quarter mile south to a roaring rip to make it outside.. as there was no way to get outside except to ride the rip. Once outside, you had to catch the first wave or you were already past the line up and headed into the rocks.

There were four of us.. two pros and me and I friend I convinced to go for it.

Well I had to paddle hard to get into the wave and once I did, the drop into the curl felt like a body slam, and the roar was deafening, there was nothing soft or sweet about this ride, it charged, and when I moved to go up the lip, it closed on me.. it pounded me to the bottom, where it spun me and the leash wrapped around my neck.. as the wave moved on, the board went to the top and tightened the leash around my neck, so I was grabbin the leash to stop it from snapping my neck off, and I was still being pushed to the floor.. I had to do summersaults under water, I had no air, to release the leash and just when I got to the top to take a breath, I was in the impact zone and a bigger monster crashed down full force filling my face with salty water, I released my leash, hugged the floor.. started having brown outs before I got back up, took a breath and the third wave hit, drove me into the rocks.. destroyed the board, tore up my wet suit, gave me a scar on my head, and my arm, and attracted the attention of people worried I wasn't going to be able to make it back to the shore because of the rocks and massive sets.

I made it. I was lucky I didn't need stitches (maybe I did but I didn't get any).. and I slept really good that night, from exhaustion.

My first boyfriend dies surfing Waimea.. and I have been to too many surfer funerals. always thought I'd have a surfer funeral.. but I chose to get a sinus operation when the surgeon promised me I'd be back in the water in 10 days. Ten days I found out that I had no ability to keep water from going into my nose.. no way to equalize,, no way to swim.. I was beached. I had to get rid of a garage full of gear.. it was my life.. deep sigh. I miss it.

Thank you for sharing your story and inspiring me to remember some of my own. Makes me want to cry.. I miss it. That "I <3 ex-surfers".. that makes me want to surf again.

Some of the best surfers are the nicest people.. you can take a surfer out of the surf, but you can't take the surf out of the surfer. Shaka.